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Tips Archive |
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Check back from time to time as we add new tips gathered from online sources, seminars, and our own in-house experts.
Following are links to a few of Ward's Tip Sheets, also available at the Front Desk.
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Blueberry Shrubs - Bright Red Fall Color + Berries!
Make your landscape do double-duty—looking great while tasting great, too! The blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) is an easy-care, multi-use shrub.
These attractive, well-behaved shrubs are rarely bothered by insects or diseases. In the spring, they are covered with white, bell-shaped flowers. Between July and September, depending on variety, mature plants produce hundreds of delicious berries. Then in the fall, the leaves turn a rich scarlet, orange or purple.
Blueberries grow wild over the eastern United States and are an important food for wildlife. No need to worry about them invading the forests from your garden! If you are interested in harvesting a crop of berries for fresh eating, baking or canning, you can choose varieties with different ripening dates, flavors and sizes. It is possible to pick fresh blueberries over a two or three-month period. In any case, plant several varieties to ensure good pollination. Ward’s offers, in order of ripening time, these high-bush varieties:
‘Earliblue’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Patriot’, ‘Bluecrop’, and ‘Jersey’. Or, you might like the low-bush type, Vaccinium angustifolium--suitable as a groundcover!
Plant them in full sun for plentiful yields and plan for a mature size of 4 feet wide x 10 feet tall. Blueberries require acid soil below 6.0 and as low as 4.5. Have the pH of your soil tested. If the pH is greater than 5.5 but less than 7.0, you can increase the acidity by amending your planting bed with sulfur (SO4). Check the pH annually and amend as needed. It is generally impractical to modify alkaline soils (pH greater than 7). Your soil type will affect the quantity of sulfur needed. In short, a light sandy soil needs less sulfur than a heavy clay soil, even if the starting pH is the same. If you’re not sure how much to add, stop in to Ward’s with the pH results of your soil. We can help you determine the correct amount of additives to reach the ideal growing conditions for your blueberries.
Blueberries have shallow roots and appreciate a steady supply of moisture. Prepare the bed for them by amending 12-20” down and 3-5 feet across with plenty of organic matter and compost in the root zone. Add sulfur if required by your soil test. Space them about 6-8 feet apart. To keep them moist through the summer, mulch with wood chips, sawdust, oak leaves or shredded bark.
To protect your scrumptious berries while they are ripening, you should plan on covering the plants as soon as the berries start to turn blue. Birds have more time to check on the progress of the berries than we do and will eat many or most of them as they ripen! Your cover can be as simple as netting wrapped around each bush, or you can build a cage over many plants. Ward’s blueberries will fruit this summer and bear a full crop after four to six years. With proper care, this shrub can produce berries for decades!
Updated May 2006
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Indoor Bonsai Care
Most indoor bonsai are plants native to warmer climates. Some of the more common indoor varieties are Serissa, Brush Cherry, Okinawan Holly, New Zealand Tea, Sub-tropical Elms, Fukien Tea, Ficus varieties, Dwarf Myrtle, Portulacara, Dwarf Boxwood, Barbados Cherry, Olive, Natal Plum and many others.
W A T E R I N G
Proper watering is critical. The basic rule is allow the soil to dry down between waterings, but never allow it to become bone dry.
Under-watering and over-watering are both problems. Under-watering is not watering often enough or well enough. Over-watering is watering too often. Under-watering is most likely to occur in the summer while over-watering occurs most often in the winter. Feel the surface of the soil regularly. If the soil is dry (or you think that is will become dry before you have a chance to check it again) then it is time to water. Water from above until the soil is well soaked. During hot dry weather you r tree will need frequent watering. Direct sunlight and wind can cause the soil to dry out rapidly. Very small bonsai in small pots can sometimes dry out in a day or even hours. Be alert to changing conditions.
Remember: Allow the soil to dry down between waterings, but never allow it to become bone dry.
T E M P E R A T U R E
Most indoor bonsai love the summer heat (with ample water). Most do best with winter temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (some true tropicals like it a little warmer). Freezing or near freezing temperatures should always be avoided.
L I G H T
Most bonsai need to be grown in very good light. If you can, put your indoor bonsai outdoors in the late spring, summer, and early fall. Filtered sun, or morning sun is best for most varieties though some (especially larger ones) can thrive in full sun. When indoors keep your bonsai in a window or very close to one. If you cannot provide enough light in the winter, we suggest supplementing with grow lights.
F R E S H _ A I R
Air circulation is very important. Open the window or get your bonsai outside on warm days. When you cannot open windows, we suggest using an oscillating fan for several hours a day.
F E R T I L I Z I N G
Your indoor bonsai does best with frequent feeding during the growing season (February through October). We recommend organic rather than chemical fertilizer. Dilute Neptune's Harvest liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength and incorporate into your regular waterings.
P E S T _ P R E V E N T I O N
Clean your bonsai once a week by removing dead or unhealthy foliage. Wash each time you water by running the water through the foliage. Misting is useful when the air is dry as it provides extra moisture and helps keep the foliage clean. If you detect pests treat with a mild insecticide every three or four days until the infestation is cleared up. For serious infestations consult a professional.
R E P O T T I N G _ A N D _ S T Y L I N G
Most bonsai need to be repotted every two or three years. Occasional trimming will also be necessary to keep your bonsai looking good. We recommend consulting a good book or a bonsai professional (or competent enthusiast) for advice.
Thank you, enjoy your bonsai and don’t forget to water.
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Bulb Varieties & Bulb Forcing
Bulb Varieties – A Start! updated October 2007
Ward’s has the following bulbs and more! Read on to see what your many options are. Those that are pest-resistant are market ‘PR’.
Daffodils are virtually ignored by deer, voles and other rodents. We have a variety of shapes, colors and sizes that will bloom for months. When you plant a deciduous specimen tree or shrub, include a ring of daffodils or any of the following bulb varieties for a pretty early show. Bulbs bring early color before the tree leafs out and the bulbs benefit from the dry soil as the tree starts drawing water in earnest through the growing season. PR
Tulips and Hyacinths have an elegance that’s hard to resist. Fertilize their locations through the growing season to keep them performing for you. Also to keep pests at bay, use repellants at planting time or encase them in a mesh box or mesh onion bag that will frustrate those small and large rodents.
Fritillaria will also serve as a pungent repellant. Plant these small and large bulbs around bulbs or plants that are regularly plagued by underground rodents. PR
Galanthus (Snowdrops) PR, Crocus, and Scilla (PR) are all small bulbs that show up in very early to early spring. Plants these in groups right under your grass. Cut away an area of sod and peel it back. Arrange the bulbs in the proper spacing and replace the sod. Water well. These bulbs will bloom and be dying back before your grass needs mowing in the spring.
Anemone blanda and Chionodoxa (PR) flower in multiple blooms from one bulb and emerge in March and April. Plant these in outdoor planters or around rock outcroppings and along the edges of perennial beds for a bright early show of blues, purples and pinks.
Allium (PR) and Iris are also available now. The iris is in tuber form, will take some room and should not be planted too deep. The allium can be planted first in a layered planting of bulbs. Allium’s small to massive globes of blooms add a dramatic and unusual shape to your June garden.
To plant a layered bulb garden, largest bulbs are planted deepest. Bloom time is usually smallest to largest when you look at different bulb types. The exception is miniature narcissus which bloom later than full size daffodils. Daylilies can finish the planting and their long leaves will mask the die-back of the early bulbs.
As you can see, you have many options so get out there and expand your bulb collection!
Forcing Bulbs
Spring flowering bulbs usually require a rooting period of about 12 to 15 weeks at temperatures between 41-48°F in order to produce a good root system, which is essential if they are to be "forced" into flower. Commonly forced bulb flowers are amaryllis, paper-white narcissus, muscari and hyacinths. Certainly they are the easiest. However, other bulbs that can be forced include colchicum and miniature iris.
Storing Bulbs
If you can’t pot them right away, bare bulbs can be stored for several weeks in your refrigerator before potting up if they are packed properly. However, don't store bulbs in the same drawer where you keep ripening fruit or vegetables. They give off ethylene gas which can harm the bulbs. (Also some bulbs are poisonous, so this storage method is not recommended for households with young children.) Bulbs will still require a cool-temperature rooting period after they have been potted.
The best way to store them is in a mesh bag or paper bag with holes that permit ventilation. You don't have to worry about water, as the humidity inside a refrigerator is usually high enough. Check them periodically to make sure they are not molding or drying out.
Potting Bulbs for Cooling/Rooting
Pot your bulbs right away if you have a cool location immediately available, such as an old (functioning) refrigerator, a root cellar or cool basement — or if outdoor temperatures are below 45°F. Your refrigerator can serve as a suitable rooting area if you have the pot space.
Use clean pots with drainage holes (the depth will depend on the bulbs being grown). Allow for 2 inches of soil below the bulb and select a pot large enough to allow the top of the bulb to be even with the rim when placed on the soil. Different types of bulbs require differing periods of time to root well. For this reason it is not advisable to combine different types of bulbs in the same pot.
Plain potting soil is fine. You can add some bone meal or special fertilizer formulated for bulbs, just a "pinch" per bulb, to the soil mixture. Place 2 inches of soil in the pot, then gently place bulbs into position. Add enough soil to fill the pot, firming the soil gently around the bulbs being careful not to bruise them. Water well in order to settle the soil around the bulbs. Bulbs can be planted very close together, even touching, and make the best show in "crowded" arrangements.
Label each pot with the name of the variety, planting date, and the date you intend to bring it out of storage for forcing. Bulbs will flower some 3-4 weeks after they have been brought into warmer temperatures. Thus, from time of planting to flowering, allow a period of 15 weeks--12 weeks for rooting and 3 weeks in warmer temperatures to flower. It is easier to hold bulbs back than to speed them up, so when you know the date you want them to be in flower, calculate accordingly the best planting time. For Valentine's Day flowers, for example, plant bulbs in early- to mid-October.
The following timetable will help you plan a forcing schedule and achieve flowering at a given date. Remember that these can vary, and in all cases, the bulbs must be well rooted before being forced.
• To flower in January, plant in September or very early October
• To flower in February, plant early- to mid-October
• To flower later, plant in late October or early November
There are exceptions: amaryllis and Paperwhite narcissus.
Forcing Blooms
The actual forcing begins at the stage when you remove the bulbs from the root-growing environment into warmth and light, triggering the growth of leaves and flowers. Sunshine and temperature are the most important factors in promoting successful flowering. Most bulbs will require about 3 or 4 weeks from the time they are removed from cold storage before they bloom.
After the rooting period specified for your particular bulb variety (generally at least 12-14 weeks), transfer the pots to a place indoors with indirect sunlight and temperatures about 60°F for a week or two.
When the shoots are 4-6 inches tall, move the pots to a bright, sunny window to stimulate blooming. A temperature of about 68°F and direct sunlight will produce the best results. When the buds take on color, return the plants to indirect sunlight to make the blossoms last. Keep the soil moist at all times.
If blossoms begin to develop too quickly, you may be able to retard blooming a bit by moving the pots out of direct sunlight and into a cooler location. Move them back to sunlight and warmer temperatures when you want them to resume growing.
After blooming, hardy bulbs such as hyacinths and tulips cannot be forced again and should be discarded. Or they can be planted outdoors where they may rebloom within a year or two.
NO-CHILL, Easy Paperwhite Narcissus
Paperwhites (narcissus tazetta), 'Soleil d'Or', 'Chinese sacred lily' and colchicum are among the most popular forcing flowers that don't require the 12-week rooting period. They are easy to start and can give you indoor blooms from Thanksgiving until late March, if planted successively, batch after batch in late fall. Paperwhites are most often (and most easily) potted in shallow containers of gravel. Place bulbs on a layer of gravel and carefully fill in enough gravel to hold bulbs but not cover them. A crowded grouping will be the most attractive. Add water to the container. It should go just to the base of the bulbs, but not touching the bulbs. Place container in a sunny spot, step back and watch 'em grow! You'll see roots in a day or so and in three to five weeks you'll have gorgeous flowers.
The Easiest Bulbs for Forcing
• Paperwhite narcissus; popular bulb; grows in soil or gravel
• amaryllis; popular Christmas plant (plant bulb in early November, no cooling necessary)
• large-flowering crocus; requires 12-14 week rooting period; bulbs can be potted in gravel and water for different effect
• hyacinth; fragrant spring-time favorite; requires about 12 weeks for rooting; can be forced in special "hyacinth" vases using only water
• colchicum; excellent for forcing, can even grow on a window sill without soil or water; begins blooming in about two weeks
• muscari; requires 16 week rooting time; pot plenty, they're small
• iris; especially iris reticulata are easy to force, but need careful attention to drainage; require about 15 weeks for rooting; don't hold iris bulbs too long before potting; tall-stemmed iris are less suited to forcing
Other Dutch Bulbs for Forcing
• Forced tulips require a fairly long rooting period at a constant temperature to be successful. Allow at least 15 weeks. Experiment with a few pots of different varieties. Tulip Tip: Plant bulbs with flat side facing the rim, this will position the larger outer leaves toward the pot rim, where they will drape gracefully over the edge of the pot.
• Daffodils require very bright light, such as that found in a greenhouse, to flower well. Too little sun results in leggy growth and no blossoms. Only the miniature varieties (hybrid) daffodils are recommended for home forcing. Daffodils usually require a 12-14 week rooting period. Once removed from the rooting area, daffodils must be placed in a location that receives lots of sun, say an enclosed porch or sun room or under a skylight.
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Hints for Decorating Your Christmas Tree
Below are suggested quantities of lights or ornaments for decorating a Christmas tree. Organized by the size of tree:
4' Tree
300-500 lights, 50' garland, 30 novelty ornaments, 60 glass balls
5' Tree
400-600 lights, 100' garland, 50 novelty ornaments, 60-100 glass balls
6' Tree
500-700 lights, 120' garland, 60 novelty ornaments, 80-120 glass balls
7' Tree
600-900 lights, 150' garland, 70 novelty ornaments, 120-160 glass balls
8' Tree
700-1500 lights, 190' garland, 80 novelty ornaments, 150-200 glass balls
The amounts of material needed will vary based on the fullness of the tree or how it is being decorated. A tree with fewer branches will require fewer lights but will likely need more ornaments and so on. Have Fun!
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Container Planting & Care Guide
Maybe you’d like to try a new flower combination but starting up a “full-sized specialty garden” sounds like too expensive and then, ugh, what if you don’t like it?
For something more manageable, consider a few containers to add new definition to your sidewalk, deck or patio. Anything that holds soil and drains can be a container--let your imagination go! You can do a series where each pot has plants of similar colors but different shapes, all the same arrangement or unique specimens to balance each unique pot.
Sun-loving plants need a minimum of 6 hours of sun but for shade lovers that can be too much. So choose your plant combinations wisely. Beyond that here are some basic guidelines for success:
1. Choose a container that can hold the plant. Annuals can handle crowding as long as you water and fertilize regularly. Large annuals, like cannas, elephant’s ears, or dahlias need a pot that is 20 inches high and from 18 to 24 inches in diameter, but there will still be room for a few small flowers to trail out around the edges. For a smaller centerpiece (say tuberous begonia, coleus or small trio of impatiens, begonias or marigolds) with trailing ivy or sweet potato vine, you can use a container 10 to 12 inches deep and across.
2. Plant in lightweight potting soil. Your container plants will need to stay moist but not waterlogged. Potting soil mixes are formulated to retain moisture while still draining well. Garden soil is usually too high in clay content and will hold too much water. Remember that your container needs to drain. You can put screening material over the hole in the bottom so that soil does not run out with the water.
3. Establish a watering and fertilizing routine. The real trick to beautiful healthy containers is monitoring their moisture. A daily dose of water will be required in hot sunny weather and maybe even two doses—one in the morning and again at midday—during extreme heat. The kind of container you choose will make a difference. Small terra cotta pots holding a quart of soil dry out quicker than a large plastic pot with 2 gallons of soil. Water slowly and gently allowing the water to reach all the soil in the pot and to begin draining out the bottom. Be sure to empty the saucer if you have one. Roots left in a puddle of water will rot. To manage the fertilizing, mix a slow-release fertilizer into the surface of the soil at planting time. This fertilizes your plants every time you water for over 3 months. With the slow-release system, you’ll know your soil has the nutrients to keep your plants healthy. For fuller blooms, add a blossom-booster fertilizer (10-50-10 ratio) in your watering can every 2 weeks. When watering, nip off the spent flowers to prevent them from going to seed. This will encourage new growth and flowers.
So, try something a little different this summer without spending a fortune.
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Cyclamen
These colorful house plants are native to Greece, Syria, Southern Europe, and Asia Minor. Should you buy or receive one of these striking plants, it will reward you with many weeks of bloom provided you follow a few simple guidelines.
Watering:
Keep the soil constantly moist but not soggy. Don’t let water sit directly on the corm or rot may occur.
Temperature:
Cyclamen prefer cool temperatures of 40 - 50◦F, particularly at night, but they will tolerate a warmer situation.
Light:
During the winter, a sunny east or west window is fine.
Fertilizer:
Select a low Nitrogen blend, such as Peter’s or Miracle Gro.
Rest Period:
Cyclamen can be kept from year to year if they are given a rest period during the summer. When they stop flowering, discontinue fertilizing and place them in a shaded spot. Reduce watering so the soil dries out somewhat. In September, repot the corms at the same depth that they were growing but no deeper. The plant will sometimes hold its old leaves as the new ones form.
Problems:
The most common problem is the yellowing of older leaves, which could be caused by too much warmth, soggy soil, or soil that has dried to the point of wilting. Clean up yellow leaves and adjust care as needed.
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Lawn Strategies for Spring, updated April 2007
The moles and skunks have been ripping apart your property and it feels past time to do something about it! First you should spread some repellent or even some baited poison to get them out of your property. However, those critters are visiting you for your grubs and their friends will show up eventually. So until you get rid of the grubs, you will be hosting moles and skunks. Once you get rid of the grubs, then you can go about repairing and improving your lawn.
Luckily there are many methods for grub control. The first is a 24-hour control that will kill them as they move through the soil. It becomes ineffective after about a week. In May, the grubs (larvae of the Japanese and Asian beetles) are big, strong and just about to emerge as adults. After stopping those first ones, invest in a season-long control to put down in June. This product is taken up by the plants and infects the larvae as they feed. The season-long control gets the grub in its early stages and will prevent grub activity next spring.
For an organic control, use Milky Spore in zones where the soil temperature stays above 65 degrees for 8 weeks. Milky Spore is a bacteria that infects only Japanese Beetles so is highly specific. Milky Spore bacteria needs to be applied 3 times a year and will multiply. Control can be achieved in a few years.
After the grub population is diminished, consider your grass seed and your lawn’s soil. Spread a pre-emergent weed control to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating. You can do this while forsythia is still blooming but after that, the annual weeds have already germinated. Then you will need to go to a more synthetic solution, hand pull, or just work diligently to improve the vigor of your current lawn grasses and get them to crowd out the bad guys.
After the pre-emergent weed control program (about 4-8 weeks depending on the control you choose), you can spread fresh seed over your existing lawn. First, improve the soil by spreading a thin layer of compost in the problem areas where the ground is compacted. Rake the area to loosen the soil and make it easier for new roots to reach into the soil. Spread a seed mixture recommended for your conditions whether they are full sun, part shade or dry. After seeding, keep the area moist until the seeds have germinated. And as a final reminder, don’t use any product on your property until you have read and understood the label thoroughly. Good luck!
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O R G A N I C__ G A R D E N I N G
‘Organic Gardening’ is not that difficult or mysterious, it just takes some planning, attention and patience. Organic Gardening depends on natural processes to maintain a healthy balance in your immediate garden ecosystem. However, biological and organic processes take more time. So there’s no time like the present to get started.
First, get a complete Soil Test. This will tell you the organic and nutritional health of your soil. From this basis, you can make informed decisions about which plants to choose and which organic amendments you need. You can do a pH test yourself but for the complete test, contact the UMass Soil Test Lab at (413) 545-2311 or visit online at http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/.
Next, make a garden Plan based on the actual environment. Is it shady and moist, shady and dry, sunny and dry? How much direct sun in a day and how long does water ‘stand’ before soaking in or running off? Sheltered or pounded by winter winds? Does the snow get piled there in the winter? What about kids’ ball games or the ATV they use? By knowing your garden’s environment, you’ll choose more suitable plants that will thrive in your conditions and require less attention.
Compost is the next vital ingredient to successful organic gardening. Whether you purchase it or make your own (it’s pretty simple if you have a 3’ x 3’ garden space for a compost pile), compost is the best soil amendment for any plant. Mix your topsoil one-to-one with compost and your plants get a great start.
Read up on current Organic Information. Know the current organic methods and materials such as ‘biorationals’ which are a very selective type of organic pest control—more effective and safe for the environment. Other products and methods are continuously tested for effectiveness and safety. Be open to new ideas.
Learn about Weeds, especially invasive plants. Learn how to identify and how to manage them. Maybe pulling them up in spring is all that’s necessary to keep them controlled.
Create an ecosystem that Allows Beneficial Insects and microorganisms to thrive. Plan to have a variety of plants and something blooming all season long. Not only is it lovely but you’ll provide a better habitat for all your gardening partners.
What Next?
Visit us at Ward’s Nursery & Garden Center with your plan and your needs. We have experienced gardeners to help you. We carry organic soil amendments, native and organic plants, informative books and organic pest controls to start you off on a good, green foot.
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HERBACEOUS PEONY-PLANTING & CARE, updated June 2011
Potted peonies alleviate much of the stress and concern over peony planting because you can plant pot-grown peonies any time of the growing season as long as the plants enjoy good drainage and regular watering.
CHOOSE A GOOD LOCATION- Peony bushes (paeonia lactiflora) flourish in full or partial sun exposure. Plants require at least five hours of direct sunlight to bloom. Specimens require well-drained soil with a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 and plenty of space to grow and flower. Space plants at least 3 to 4 feet from one another to reduce competition for soil nutrients and water and encourage good flowering.
1. Water the peony thoroughly before planting.
2. Dig a hole AT LEAST TWICE AS DEEP AND AS WIDE as the root ball or container.
3. Make a mixture of 1 part soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part composted cow manure for use in the planting hole. A scoop of bonemeal and superphosphate helps too.
4. Return some soil mixture to the hole so that the potted peony’s soil will sit evenly with ground level. If you have a bare root, the buds or eyes of the rootstock should be approximately 2” below the soil level, no deeper.
5. For potted peonies, carefully remove root ball from the plastic pot. Place one hand on top of soil; turn pot upside down; grasp bottom of pot and lift up, cleanly removing pot from soil.
6. Set peony in the hole and confirm that the potted soil level is even with the ground level. Adjust by removing or adding soil mixture.
7. Backfill with the remaining soil mixture.
8. Water thoroughly especially if planting bareroot stock. Wait for water to percolate down and soil to settle. Add more soil mixture if necessary then water again.
9. After planting, spread ¼ cup Flower-Tone or similar fertilizer with ratio of N-P-K similar to 5-8-8 in a circle around the plant and scratch in slightly. The ratio is important because too much nitrogen will encourage leaves and not flowers. Fertilize at planting, again in September and then twice annually in April and September
10. Install a single or double peony hoop around the bush to support heavy blooms.
11. Spread 1 - 2 inches of mulch around the plant to help retain soil moisture.
12. Water surrounding soil deeply once a week thereafter through October.
13. Spray if necessary (during high humidity conditions) with general purpose fungicide 2 or 3 applications 10 days apart (follow label directions).
14. Cutting center blooms will encourage side-buds to mature and bloom, extending flowering period.
Keys to Continued Success:
In October, weed and clear debris from around the plants. After a hard frost, cut yellowed stems to the ground level. Bag up and destroy (not compost) any debris to prevent over-wintering diseases and pests.
After several frosts but before the ground freezes—generally by late-November—mound mulch up to 6 inches over the plant. This prevents root injury that results from rapid temperature changes in winter. These fluctuations heave plants out of the ground and expose roots and plant crowns to the drying winds of winter.
By mid-April, remove the deep mulch, exposing the soil surface to ensure that light reaches the
peony buds or eyes under the soil surface.
Install a peony hoop or growing grid 12-18 inches over the plant as it emerges. This allows the peony to grow into its stake and you will have less chance of damaging the plant by struggling with heavy flowers or bushy stems too late in the season.
Trouble-shooting:
The American Peony Society has listed some reasons and possible solutions why peonies fail to flower well. They include:
A. No buds appear:
1. Plants too young and immature.---Allow them to mature.
2. Planted too deep or too shallow.---Examine and if eyes are more than 3” below ground, lift and replant.
3. Clumps too large and too old.---Divide the clump if it stops flowering (after3-10 years) leaving 3 eyes per division.
4. Too much nitrogen.---Cut down on frequency of fertilizing or change fertilizer to different ratio.
5. Moved and divided too often.---If the clump is flowering well it should not be moved. Clumps can remain in place well over 10 years.
6. Too much shade.---Move to a sunny location.
B. Buds appear but flowers do not develop:
1. Buds killed by late frost.---Hope for more seasonable weather next year. Or Plant earlier cultivars.
2. Buds killed by disease. They usually turn black and die.---Spray as directed for botrytis.
3. Buds attacked by thrips. They open partially, turn brown and fall.---Spray preventive oil as directed.
4. Buds waterlogged due to excessive rain.---Plant singles or Japanese forms. Or Bagging buds will help.
5. Plants undernourished.---Fertilize with 8-8-8 and bonemeal.
6. Excessively hot weather.---Plant early flowering cultivars.
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Poinsettia Reflowering
Getting poinsettias to reflower is not easy, but with some patience and care it can be done.
Late Winter - Early Spring
• Cut back each of the old flowering stems to 4 to 6 inches in height. Do this in February or early March. This will promote new growth.
Late Spring - Summer
• Repot into a 2-3 inches in diameter larger pot. Make sure the soil mass is moistened and place in a sunny window. When all danger of frost has passed and night temperature are above 60•F the plant can be placed outdoors. Place the poinsettia in a shady location for two to three weeks to allow it to become acclimated to the new environment. Then sink the pot in a sunny protected outdoor flower bed. Light shade during the afternoon is okay.
• Turn the poinsettia pot regularly to prevent rooting through the bottom hole. It is suggested that a quarter turn each week will prevent this and will also help to keep the plant growth even all around the pot. If the pot is not turned, one side may get more sun than the other.
• If you prefer a short plant with many flowers, pinch out the growing shoots to encourage branching. Pinching should produce more flowers and a nice bushy plant. This should be done at 3 to 4 week intervals, according to the speed of growth. Pinch out the top 1/4 inch by hand. Two or three large fully expanded leaves should be left below the pinch; this serves as a guide for knowing when the shoots are ready for pinching. Continue this practice until mid- August, when the plant should have a satisfactory shape and number of shoots.
• Keep the plant growing actively all summer by regular watering and feeding every two weeks with a complete soluble fertilizer (20-20-20).
Fall
• Before night temperatures fall below 55-60°F at night, bring the poinsettia indoors to a sunny location. Check for pests and diseases and place poinsettia in a south window.
• Flowering is "photoperiodically" induced in the poinsettia. This means that flowers begin to form when the days are a certain length, or, more accurately, when the nights are long enough. The poinsettia is a short-day or long-night plant. Without long nights, this plant will continue to produce leaves and will grow but will never flower. You must make certain it receives no light from any source.
• Very short periods of lighting at night may be enough to prevent or interfere with flowering. Even light from a street light can stop flowering. If the plant is to be grown in a room that is lighted nightly, cover it completely at dusk (5p.m.) every day with a heavy paper bag, a piece of opaque black cloth, other light-tight cover or place in a dark closet.
• Flower initiation begins in late September and early October. Dark periods longer than 12 hours are necessary for flower set. Flowers mature in from 60 to 85 days depending on varieties, temperature and light intensity.
• Because flower initiation depends upon the length of the dark period, your poinsettia must be kept completely dark from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. The time to give this treatment is from the end of September until December 15.
• Once you can see the flowers developing in the growing plants, i. e., when the floral bracts start to show definite color, it is not as important to continue giving the dark period, though it is advisable to continue until the bracts are almost fully expanded.
• Temperatures should be no less than 55°F at night, but not more than 70°F. During the day give the poinsettia as much sunlight as possible.
• Reduce the amount of fertilizer given after bringing the plant indoors. Growth is slower in the lower light intensity inside the house.
• High night temperatures, coupled with low-light intensity, low nutrition, dry soil or improper photoperiod may delay maturity.
From: University of Illinois Extension--http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/reflowering.html
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ROSE PLANTING & CARE, updated May 2007
1. Water the rose thoroughly before planting.
2. Dig a hole AT LEAST TWICE AS DEEP and as wide as the root ball or container.
3. Make a mixture of 1 part soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part composted cow manure for use in the planting hole.
4. Carefully remove root ball from the plastic pot. Place one hand on top of soil; turn pot upside down; grasp bottom of pot and lift up, cleanly removing pot from soil.
5. Set rose in the hole deep enough for the soil to cover the bud union by 1 to 2 inches. Backfilling with prepared soil to raise the plant to the proper depth may be necessary.
6. After planting spread ¼ cup rose food or other general purpose fertilizer like 5-10-5 in a circle around the plant, scratch in slightly. Do this monthly, up to 3 times, through July.
7. Spread 1 - 2 inches of mulch around the plant.
8. Soak planting area with water so that water is absorbed to the depth of the root ball. Water deeply once a week thereafter through October.
9. Spray if necessary with general purpose rose fungicide 2 or 3 applications 10 days apart (follow label directions).
10. Cut off the faded blooms. This will greatly increase the production of more flowers.
Keys to Winter Success:
--In October, weed and clear debris from around the plants. Carefully prune dead, broken or diseased canes to prevent over-wintering of pests and disease.
--After several frosts but before the ground freezes—generally by late-November, mound the soil to 8 inches or more around the base of the bush.* Be sure to cover the bud union (where the stem meets the root stock). This prevents root injury that results from rapid temperature changes in winter. These fluctuations heave plants out of the ground and expose roots and plant crowns to the drying winds of winter. Soil for mounding should be light garden soil or topsoil-- not heavy and compacting. Do not use mulch or other non-soil material.
--Next to protect the canes from animals and winter damage, mulch and cover the canes by wrapping them into Styrofoam or cardboard cones or bushel baskets.* Canes can be cut back to 18 inches to make things easier. Large shrubs or grouped plantings can be mulched within a cylinder of chicken wire and burlap according to their size.
--In mid-April, begin removing the deep mulch and carefully remove the mounding soil and haul away. Spring pruning to a swollen, outward facing bud should be done now.
*Rugosa roses are winter hardy and do not require soil- mounding or winter cones.
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Bring on the Spring! Plants Wake Up Hungry...
Now that the sunlight is stronger and stays around longer, your houseplants (and landscape perennials, too) will break dormancy and start to stretch.
Some new growth brings flower buds with it immediately for early color. Others, like rex begonia indoors or epimedium outside, send up leaves of a more vivid color, perhaps laced with pinkish-red before settling into the darker green of maturity. Once you see new growth, these plants will be tapping into nutrient reserves and need an infusion of balanced fertilizer now.
But how much? Plants growing in full sunlight need more fertilizer. They undergo more photosynthesis and require more nutrients. Plants in shade or low light require less fertilizer but more often.
Mix a balanced (ie 10-10-10) water soluble fertilizer at a ratio of ¼ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water. An organic fertilizer might have a lower numbered ratio like 7-9-5. With the organic fertilizer, you can increase the ratio to ½ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water. Water regularly as needed with this fertilized solution for a week to 10 days. Brighter situations will probably require more watering. After this time, switch to clear water for 2 waterings. Your plants in low light situations can be watered as often but reduce the ratio of fertilizer to water by half.
You’ll notice robust new growth within a couple weeks. Continue this rotation through the growing season as long as light levels are high and temperatures remain above 60 degrees F.
Not enough time to mix your solutions? A top-dressing of granular or slow release fertilizer scratched into the soil surface around the plants will release nutrients over time, from several weeks to 3 months depending on brand or composition. Just check the fertilizer label for proper amounts. But, it’s still a good idea to water in a more immediate-action fertilizer for the first spring feeding.
You’ll see growth above, but don’t forget about the growth below! Houseplant roots also start actively growing and you might want to consider repotting. If the plant requires excessive watering, growth above has overwhelmed the container, or growth is pale and thin even with the regular feeding, your plant may be pot-bound and need repotting.
When changing pot size, increase your pot by only one inch in diameter. Too much space will waste water and cause too much moisture around the roots. As long as you have the plant out of the pot, check over the roots for damage or discoloration. Roots should be white with small root hairs along the larger lengths. The root ball should be full of roots with no mushy or moldy pieces. Trim out any bad or unhealthy sections and rinse with clear, cool water before repotting in fresh soil.
Even in containers indoors, your plants change with the seasons and wake up to spring. Be sure to give them a healthy start with a good breakfast and a suitable environment.
-updated April 2007
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General Tips For Winter Houseplant Care
By thoroughly inspecting the tops and undersides of plants, the stem, and soil at least once a week, you can catch the first signs of insect or fungus problems.
If your plants are losing leaves or are turning yellow, don’t necessarily blame insects or fungus yet. Drastic humidity swings could be the problem. Bring up the humidity without over-watering by placing trays filled with gravel under your pots. Keep the gravel moist and you create a humid environment for the plant. Investing in a small electric humidifier will benefit not only the health of your plants but your health as well. Only water when the soil is dry to the touch.
Plants still looking blah? Common pests include aphids, white fly, fungus gnats, powdery mildew, and spider mites. The white fly lays its eggs under the leaf in the shade of the plant. Don’t forget to inspect thoroughly. You’ll find a magnifying glass is a great help. A little reflective foil placed around the base of the plant will help prevent the white fly from laying eggs there. To get rid of them as well as aphids, give your plants a thorough bath in the shower. Spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to coat the leaves including the undersides. When plants are dry, return them to their usual location. Inspect in one week and repeat the process two more times, about 7 days apart for a total of 3 applications. This will break the lifecycle between egg stage and adult. Using a yellow sticky card will help monitor the flying insect population and also give some control.
Powdery mildew, the white dusting on plant surfaces, occurs from dramatic swings in moisture and lack of air circulation. Treat with a fungicide spray labeled for powdery mildew. Home remedies include baking soda and water about 1 tablespoon soda per gallon and chamomile tea applied at room temperature at weekly intervals until all signs are gone. Coat undersides of leaves, too. To prevent the mildew, again keep your humidity around the plants stable and don’t pack plants too close together. Light pinching will also allow better air circulation.
Spider mites love the dry air of winter. Yellowing, stippled leaves indicate this parasite may have moved in; wispy web strands between leaves and leaf stems confirm them. Still not sure? Hold a white piece of paper under the plant leaves and tap the stem. Dust specks that land on the paper and move under their own power are mites. Again, give your plants a thorough shower and use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to coat the leaves and soil surface. And try to increase humidity or mist daily!
Continue to fertilize "weakly". That is, use half-strength to quarter-strength fertilizer. Plants indoors will start to react to the longer days and may put out new growth. Pinch this growth back to prevent long “legs” and to make a bushier plant. You’ll want to continue this practice until at least April.
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Watering Details
New Landscape Plantings
Watering practices are critical to the successful establishment of landscape plants and more so during drought. The following checklist will make plant-care easier.
F R E Q U E N C Y
While potted plants and window boxes in sunny locations need daily watering, most other plants do not. Heavy watering every second or third day is better than frequent light waterings. A light watering daily will evaporate quickly and will not soak into the soil to the root zone. Keep up weekly waterings throughout the first and second growing season for new plantings.
T I M E O F D A Y
Sunlight does not burn foliage of freshly watered plants. Watering should be done during daylight hours. Water left on leaves after sundown increases the potential of fungal spores developing on leaf surfaces.
C O N S E R V I N G W A T E R
Use soaker hoses, drip irrigation systems, timers or tree gator bags to reduce water use. Mulches 1-2” deep will reduce evaporation and cool soil temperature. Water absorbing polymers “grab” excess water and slowly release it back to the soil as the plant requires it. Implementing these practices will keep plants healthy and reduce your water bill.
Watering FAQ’S- Frequently Asked Questions
What if I can’t plant right away?
If you can’t plant, then you must water plant containers or burlapped balls DAILY.
How much water is adequate?
As a general rule, large trees should get 10-20 gallons of water 1-2 times a week. Smaller shrubs should receive 5-10 gallons of water 1-2 times a week. An open-ended hose running at the plant’s base for 12 minutes in a slow, steady stream is about 5 gallons. Running for 25 minutes would be about 10 gallons.
When should I use my sprinkler?
Sprinklers are for shallow-rooted plants, such as grass, ground covers, newly planted annuals, etc. but not trees and shrubs.
How will I know when to water more often?
If there is a drought, then water deeply 2 times a week. If conditions are windy, water 2 times a week.
Do I need to water even if it rains?
If you received a sprinkling of rain today, that does not count as watering. If it poured outside for five minutes, this does not count as watering. (This rain is generally too fast to soak in and usually runs off.) A FULL day of steady rain is equal to 1 watering. Rainfall alone rarely provides adequate consistent moisture for new plantings.
Is it okay to stop watering in spring or fall?
If conditions are dry, watering may have to start as early as April or continue into October.
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